Project AW11: Low n Slow

i wanna test drive a AW out sometime,
NA is fine but SC would be something else heh

 

i got bored too. i got the back flare off a bit and moved the wheel forward 1 pixel length to make it centered instead of re-doing it.

 

haha not bad. i just have triangle front wheels and the flares arew a bit larger then they really are. i think the scares between the Z and the 2 are a bit different.


im uploading pics now for a long pic update

 

Tools:

putty knife
rachet
10mm deep well
17mm
philips screwdriver
flathead screw driver (optional)
needle nose pliers (optional, but recommended)


Supplies:

new t-top seals (kbox.ca)
new off center t-top guides (kbox.ca)
waterproof sealant (auto parts store)


heres the sealant i used.


and showing the new guides vs the oem ones


ok, step one. take off the t-tops and put them out of the way. i chose behind the seats, where i normally put them.




next step. take off the guide garnish pieces. theres a total of 4 of these, 2 per t-top and 2 screws each, amking a total of 8 screws




from here, remove the inside trim "U"




now, remove the a-pillar plastic interior trim. the passenger side requires the "oh shit handle" to be removes. this can be done by sliding the rubber end sleeves over the handle and removing the two screws.




i found some rust




next, loosen the bolts that are circled. there are also 2 on the inside of each t-top that you can see from the top. the circled ones are underneath. the fronts can be seen easily after the a-pillar trim is removed (snaps out) and the rear requires the 1/4 window trim to be removed. sorry i dont have pics of the window trim removal. its pretty easy to see where the screws are




next, since the seal isnt bolted in, you need to remove the small plastic clip things seen here



and here (pic from install)




next, peal back the old trim





and its off! next, unscrew the rails (3 screws each)



rust on passenger front rail this needed extra attention (sand, primer, paint)




now we install!

install is reverse of removal (like everything else in this world)

so, apply your sealant to you cleaned rails. yes, clean off the old gunk.



that should do. screw them down.

next, apply more sealant to the tops of them and all around the top area and going down where the new seal covers. put the center screws in on the new top and screw them down. screw the other two by the door down as well. and fasten the little back pins at the end of the new seals.





now, take your putty knife and work the seals into the rails to keep them secured to the rails, and suck in your sealant you put in the rails aswell.

i also applied extra sealant after that right above the rear view mirror area on top next to the seals. this was a problem area for me and i want to make sure NO water gets in or trapped under anything. so dab that in real well.

install the inner "U" trim





next, put the new guides in. they snap right in. i put them to be low and in. you'll understand when you go to install them what i mean. this created a nice snug fit. MUCH better than before.

install all your interior trim and put the guide garnishes back on.


heres an oem vs new trim





then, install your t-tops to apply pressure to the the sealant so it sticks when it dries.





woot for staying dry! :woot:

-kevin

 

oh, i also got my shifter cable bushings installed. (twosRus.com)

no pics though. totally forgot.

here's daniel's air freshener



sorry for the worst picture in the world

 

did you soak your car with water to check for leaks?

 

not yet, waiting for the RTV to fully cure it will be done tonight or tomorrow. :thumbup:

 

roger roger!

 

Damn good work!

 

I love pictures! Thanks for that man! I also love learning how to do random installs! Kind of looks like you need to take your gauge cluster apart and clean it up some! Nothing like a good wet sanding to clean up some clear plastic....keep us posted!

 

yeah i swapped in a 85-86 cluster because my 87 (87-89) one wasnt working. i used the 87 clear plastic but was in a hurry. yeah, the thing is filthy like a lot of the car. i also NEED new floor mats. the next big thing to fix is my windshield though. i have a crack that took up half of the passenger's side

im close to picking up some wheels also. so we'll see how that goes

 

i fucking hate my car.

it still leaks. so there goes $230 for something that didnt fix shit. i was under the impression that these were the be-all end-all fix. evidently not.

my car is a rusted piece of shit that wont stop leaking. motor runs fine and everything works mechanically, but the rust and t-tops kill me. im ready to just call it quits for this car. im sick of the money for repairs. not funny anymore. i take one step forward and a few back every time with this.

yeah, the car is fun for sunny summer driving, but it sucks so bad as soon as a drop of water hits the ground because of the leak. it makes me not want to drive it at all.

maybe ill just sell off some stuff and part it out to get money to buy a newer car with no/less problems.

oh, not to meantion i added up what i spent on this car already.

$1175 for the car
$100 for new hood/trunk/engine cover
$230 t-top supplies
$130 parking brake
$300 wheels
$160 tires
$200 flares
$30 shift boot
$60 misc bushings

for a total of $2375.


did i mention i sold my s13 for $1750 w/o a trans and some other stuff? so yeah, shouldve kept the fucking S13. im so pissed at my car right now.

 

Sorry to hear that things are going your way with the MR. 2.:evil:

Well you had Honda, Nissan, Toyota. Perhaps you want to try your luck with an Mazda, perhaps a FC, FD or Miata (that would be fun)???:2cents:

 

hahaha or subaru

ive also had FF, FR, MR......... awd next? :evil:

nah, i guess ill stick it out for a bit more. :banghead:

 

one step forward, 10 steps back......that's an all to familiar saying in my garage! lol

Keep at it. You may rebuild the whole damn thing from the ground up, but every piece you replace/repair, is one that won't fail later. Just make sure your repairs are correct. It'll pay off eventually.

Sorry I can't drive down there any help, or give you any super advice other than "stick with it" advice.

I guess you could just sell it and get a mustang so you have a car like everyone else has. lol:roflmao:

 

sounds like my CRX. fix one thing and two more things break. when i sold the CRX all my friends thought i would be sentimental about it, but i was like "here take this too, and this, and this, and this." lol! a miata does sound cool, but being a conv you run the risk of more of the same types of problems! lol! i guess i dont have any advice. id just give you a pat on the back and a grin!

 

get a GC8

 

How many problems do/have I had with my Civic... lol

 

Don't quit man, keep at it and you'll be happy you did once its all done and your car is amazing looking and performing. Also, try asking on mr2oc about your T-tops still leaking, they could probably help you out.

 

i know the feeling
shur mine isnt same gen but it has its problems also
its been at the shop for a week
cltuch problems/motor mount
but once i get it back i still have to fix the oil leak